设计策略
在设计您的要塞过程中,您至少需要考虑三个方面:
- 安全:所有要塞都需要保证基本的安全。否则您无法在第一次象群攻击中存活下来,更不用说在一次完全的兽人围攻中存活下来。
- 效率:无论是搬运石材、喝酒,还是检查柜子中的物品,矮人们总是需要走一段路程。而一个好的要塞布局——尤其要注意保证作坊、库存摆放在妥当的位置上——能够保证你的矮人们不会花费大量的时间在无谓的赶路上。
- 美观:拜托,不会有人不想要自己的要塞美观吧。
除却以上考虑之外,值得注意的是您的长期设计策略可能会受到新发现的地下地形影响。因此,请不要作过于长远的计划,因为您随时需要为先前未能预见的障碍改变原先的计划。
此外,这里有一些建筑的设计图纸可以作为参考,这其中就有层叠水泵组这种设计。
安全性
每个人都有自己喜欢的要塞防御方案,有自己喜欢的针对不死生物、野兽、敌人或者兽人入侵的解决方案。但是不管您的具体方案如何,您最好有一个针对几种无法避免的侵略的计划。以下是一些关于防卫要塞的建议。
首先最重要的事情是,请一定要记住,在危急状态下,如果您的矮人受到了惊吓,那么可能他们不会遵守您的指令。因此最好在任何危机(军事上的或者工程上的,例如洪水或者其他类型的乐趣)出现前做好相应的准备。
墙壁
墙壁是也一直会是您对抗敌人的强力工具。墙壁当下只能被矮人的鹤嘴锄破坏,无法任何势力、敌人破坏。您在游戏过程中的首要任务便是用墙壁保护好您脆弱的、宝贵的居民(以及其他人、生物,如果您愿意的话),避免他们被各类敌对生物杀死。
虽然建造墙壁需要时间和微操任务管理,但建造迷宫(并在里面塞满陷阱)是减缓入侵者入侵速度的好方法。这种方法在您的侦察兵能正常发出预警时尤其有用。入侵者到达您身边的时间越长,您就有越多的时间让您的民兵就位应对入侵。但是,自从攀爬功能出现后,请记住,仅拥有1~Z级高墙是不够的。您还需要将防御工事放置在顶部以阻止敌人攀爬上您的城墙。
开挖沟渠、护城河后,移除掉开挖后遗留的坡道即可快速创造一处无法翻越的地形(除非会飞,飞越这片地形)。借助这片地形,您可以充分发挥矮人弩手们的优势,并射杀来犯的敌人。更为简单的方式便是使用山丘提供的天然障碍,您可以移除掉山一侧的所有斜坡,而另一侧则在沟壑之间建满墙壁。然而由于攀登功能的存在,这种方式并不适用于所有场合。有些时候您需要挖出或者建造出无法攀爬的防御工事,或者在您的城墙底部边缘底部的下方,在z轴上朝下挖掘再挖两格,这样就可以避免敌人攀爬上城墙
在地下挖掘会自然产生墙壁,这种方式来建造堡垒比起直接用原材料建造墙壁的方式要简单很多,毕竟挖掘比通过原材料来建造要省事。而且封闭的洞穴更加容易对抗会飞的怪物。一开始的时候您可能只是在地下挖出一面墙,并在入口处放置门来阻挡敌人。但是请至少考虑下建造一条或多条大而长的地下隧道,让这些隧道能够在您的控制下被关闭或开启,并且堵住您最初的入口。这样您就可以让敌人们按照您喜好的方式接近您的堡垒,并在您的安排下在指定的时间到达指定的地点。此外,这种方案的好处是,如果某个隧道的防御措施没有完全起到应有的作用,那么您可以将这个隧道的出口暂时封闭,并且让原本的入口开启。这样您的敌人不得不沿着隧道往回走,并试图通过另一端的出入口,从而再次经过您的防御设施、击杀区域。
封闭堡垒
您最好预留一个将堡垒完全封闭的方案。当您遇到了无法应对的强敌进攻的时候,您就会需要这种能够把它们全部阻挡在要塞外面的方案。
如果您的要塞很小,那么您大可以只是在要塞的所有入口处放置门。门可以在紧急状况下瞬间关闭。但是您的防御最好不要只靠门来实现,因为您最终回遇到能够破坏门和撬锁的敌人。
在您的要塞内部,门同样重要。暴躁的矮人们是所有要塞的祸根。您需要一个方案将正常矮人和暴走的暴躁矮人们隔离开来,以避免要塞以及矮人们覆灭。此外门可以阻挡洪水,像隔板一样隔离开漏水的区域,这一特性在您不小心让水涌入到您的要塞时非常有用。在要塞被打开缺口并攻破的时候,您最好确保有另一条通道允许您绕过被突破的区域。如果您的要塞中所有的出入口都必须经过某个通道或者某个楼梯,而恰好有敌人占领了那块区域,那么您的要塞可能会因此覆灭。
为了确保要塞更加安全,请您务必在所有入口处放置吊桥。这些吊桥不需要护城河来配合使用,桥升起后其自身就可以充当一面城墙的作用。您需要确保这座吊桥与一个控制杆连接,而且这个控制杆能够在紧急情况下被您的矮人们迅速并安全地操控。不幸的是,在少数情况下即便是吊桥可能也无法阻挡敌人……
为了保证在被突袭的时候,总是有矮人在附近拉动控制杆,您最好将控制杆放置在会议厅附近。此外您还可以让某些矮人专门负责拉杆,只需要将他所有的工作关闭并将控制杆分配给他们控制。吸血鬼和死灵法师们非常适合这类工作,因为他们不需要睡眠。但是他们的心情可能会导致一些问题,毕竟他们并不喝东西。为了避免某些不好的情况发生,您最好保证拥有一个酒馆,并为他们提供足够的酒精。
最后一件事,不要忘记来自天上和地下的侵略者!会飞行的入侵者们可能会借助天窗绕过您设置的门和吊桥,进入您的堡垒。即便是某些必须在“地上”的农场,实际上也可以在地下开发,但是一些最好的品种的树必须种在地面上。您最好在通往地表的出口处也摆放上吊桥,预防巨型食肉鹦鹉或者大鹏的入侵。
水中的野兽可能会通过您的井爬入到您的要塞。因此您的水源最好放在被墙围起来的地方,例如由含水层供给的水库。您还可以使用穿过楼板格栅的螺杆水泵,在提供水源的同时避免敌人们(包括建筑破坏者们)游进您的要塞(但是这种防御方案可能不能用在岩浆池上)。
保证您的要塞拥有多个可以关闭的入口能够让您的敌人们多次停在入侵的路上、逆转入侵路线,甚至在跑过半张地图来接近您的城堡。反复拉起、降下吊桥来迫使敌人们前往不同的入口,能够让入侵者们长时间陷入混乱,并四处奔波。而您可以趁着这段时间唤醒或是睡眠中或是喝醉了的矮人们,让他们集结起来准备应对入侵,抑或者让入侵者们不断的在尖刺陷阱上来回走动,从而杀死他们。
侦查
伏兵与盗贼可能会潜入到您的堡垒中。一小队兽人弓箭手可能会在被发现前偷偷溜过您的大门,甚至一只妖鬼可以在没有人注意的情况下偷走您的杰作。避免这类事情发生的最好办法就是设置侦察员、瞭望员。
对于小型堡垒来说,可能最简单有效的侦查方式就是将一只军犬绑在您的要塞入口附近。在一场伏击发生前,您的狗狗将会能够提前发现入侵者们并发出警报(然后会被迅速地杀死)。如果您的侦察员们离您的大门足够远,那么您应该在得到警告后能够拥有充足的时间封锁您的堡垒,并且召集您的民兵,以及做一系列其他事情。
对于更加成型的堡垒来说,可以在格栅顶部设置一个大小为1格的牧场,并在之上放置任何类型的不能食用的家畜,让它透过格栅观察下方(当然,格栅要位于要观察的位置的上方);或者在走廊上方z格高的地方开一扇窗户,让家畜站在窗户后面观察下方的走廊,从而能够保护您忠诚的看门鹅们。这样您就不需要在这些位置上放置军犬,从而能够让更多的军犬组成更多的“杜宾炸弹”(即把大量军犬放在一个与控制杆相连的笼子中)。当“炸弹”被触发时,数十只军犬会被同时释放出来,从而让入侵者们一次性对付多只军犬,而不是让入侵者们一只接一只地杀死您的军犬们。
Caravan security
Is your trade depot going to be inside or outside your main line of defenses? This is another factor to consider when designing your fort. Although you don't have to protect the traders, their civilizations might hold your fortress responsible for any casualties.
Consider that merchants may go insane if kept in place, or if they get affected with a syndrome, so it is possibly best to have a means of segregating the rest of your fort from the trade depot, like a drawbridge-wall. At the same time, you need to load goods into and out of the depot quickly, so it should be near major stockpiles and where your haulers usually spend their time.
A caravan needs a 3-tile-wide entrance (preferably a road where you aren't placing traps to prevent a tree from growing in the path) so they tend to complicate defenses. Consider using a retractable drawbridge to allow/disallow certain entrance and exit routes from your fort. An "elevated highway" exit from your fortress that is only accessible after throwing a switch leaves an exit that allows merchants to leave in safety if a siege happens while they are trading, but entrance paths need to be kept clear, regardless. Sieges and ambushes only start from map edges that can path to your dining hall, while a caravan starts from areas that path to a valid trade depot. If you use drawbridges to cut off access to your fort from the trade depot until after the caravan passes (and you raise) a drawbridge that cuts off outsider access to the trade depot, and you then let down a drawbridge to an elevated walkway that normally grants access to nothing, you can generally ensure no ambush will follow your trading partners in. (Although the degree of engineering may force you to wait several years...)
Traps
Traps are a great way to protect your fort from small groups of attackers. When designing your fort, think about where you want to place traps. Choke points at major entrances (including entrances to the caverns) make good trap locations. However, be warned that some enemies are immune to traps....
Spikes/spear traps set to levers you order dwarves to repeatedly pull or attach to a repeater are capable of hurting creatures that can avoid traps, but require great stretches of killzone to operate effectively.
Deliberately-induced cave-ins, such as by linking a pillar to a lever, and dropping an otherwise unsupported wall, creates deadly dust that can knock even trap-immune creatures unconscious, which renders them vulnerable to ordinary traps. Cage a titanic beast, and put it in your zoo for the kids to marvel at!
Advanced dwarven techniques include methods of flooding and draining killzones with dangerous fluids like water or magma, or both to obsidian-cast the problem, which is guaranteed to kill any physical threat in existence. Other methods include controlled fires (often caused by controlled magma release). These, however, are potentially very Fun tools, so be sure you understand what you are dealing with before you set yourself to it. (Or just make it a learning experience when you mess up an early fort. Hey, Fun IS fun, after all!)
Staging area
Many players like to design their forts with a militia staging area at the main entrance. Usually this includes placing fortifications (possibly in archer towers), ammunition stockpiles, and cover for your melee dwarves to protect them from approaching archers.
If you want to rely on marksdwarves, consider fortress entrance designs that favor their method of attack. Make the only entrance a snaking series of bridges that force invaders to zig-zag in front of your marksdwarves. If that doesn't provide enough time to kill them all, stack several floors of snaking bridges, and let your marksdwarves simply climb a couple stairs to get to the next killzone between rounds. If you rely heavily on marksdwarves, remember that sieges can also contain elite archers that fire through fortifications. Prepare a 1-tile-wide drawbridge "shutter" that can block sight in front of the fortifications to protect vulnerable marksdwarves or allow for recovery of the wounded if you want to try out-shooting an elite archer.
Some players also like to place a training barracks near the entrance to the fort so that the militia can quickly respond to attackers. Putting it outside is even better as it also prevents cave adaption on your soldiers which can give you an edge in a siege, as more serious cases of cave adaption severely cut the speed of the affected dwarf. If you don't let your military dwarves outside that often, let them fight in the shade; Make your staging area underground, and just wait for the siege to roll into your staging area, instead.
Staging areas can also come with some extra help - a cage filled with every random potentially dangerous creature you don't need pastured can, when released, provide a massive (and potentially hilarious) distraction. Even a barrage of 40 kittens can bog down invaders enough that a lone swordsdwarf can fight enemies one-by-one.
Efficiency
Although many actions in the game take time, and skill levels significantly reduce the time the actual crafting of items or resource gathering takes, by and large, the OVERWHELMING majority of wasted productivity comes from dwarves having to march great distances to reach a raw material for their crafting needs. Even worse, if they get thirsty while hunting down that stray boulder at the bottom floor of the mines, they'll go all the way back up for their drink, and have to take the trek back down again, later. As such, efficiency is all about shortening the trips your craftsdwarves must take as much as possible.
Proper placement of stockpiles is key. Almost every workshop job needs raw materials. Is your still near some empty barrels and plants? Does your mason have easy access to stone? A smelter must have quick access to both ore and fuel.
As a general rule of thumb, each workshop should have at least a 3x3 stockpile area associated with it. Some workshops will need more if multiple raw ingredients are needed. Workshop design is a science in of itself but one efficient arrangement is to place output stockpiles directly above or below your workshops and connect them with stairs. Another common design is to carve out a 5x5 room and place the 3x3 workshop in the center, leaving 16 surrounding tiles for input storage.
When utilizing a large storage stockpile, for food or wood for example, the optimal approach is to place a small stockpile next to the workshop and have the small stockpile take from the large stockpile.
There are a few other things to consider for basic fortress efficiency:
- Major hallways should be at least two tiles wide, preferably three tiles. Otherwise your dwarves will be constantly running into each other causing productivity and possible framerate to be slowed.
- To reduce the amount of time that your dwarves spend walking, common areas should be placed near the center of your fort. Dwarves drink frequently. It's a good idea to store your booze in a centralized location, and to designate a meeting hall in a similarly centralized place.
- An efficient fortress must make good use of all three dimensions. A dwarf climbs or descends one z-level in the same time it takes to move one step horizontally. For example, when you need to build more bedrooms it can be a lot more efficient to dig down one level than to place the new rooms 20 tiles farther from the center of your fortress.
- Moving one step diagonally takes about 1.4 times as long as moving one step orthogonally. This matches the real world, where Pythagoras tells us that it should take √2 (about 1.4B8r3B4p7yhRXuBWLqsQ546WR43cqQwrbXMDFnBi6vSJBeif8tPW85a7r7DM961Jvk4hdryZoByEp8GC8HzsqJpRN4FxGM9 shapes into your design.
- Similarly, since vertical Z-movement is cheap, the more spherical your fortress is in shape, the less walking there is, overall. Placing workshops side-by-side on a single floor means each additional workshop requires a dwarf move at least 3 more tiles (and if there is a wall or space, 4 or 5 tiles) to reach their destination, and they will be frequently running back and forth between stockpile and workshop. Vertical stacking means a dwarf only moves 1 tile.
- With burrows, it is possible to keep some dwarves working in a specific area, so that they never try to take a task half-way across the map, or haul items a long distance through high-volume corridors. For example, you might keep your furnace operators and your weaponsmiths hard at work in their smelters and forges by designating a burrow for them. Make sure you understand burrows before attempting this - if there is no source of food or drink in the burrows a dwarf is restricted to, you may run into some problems. (This means possibly making additional dining rooms just for these dwarves.) Also make sure the dwarves' quarters (or at least a dormitory) are inside the burrow.
- A more advanced technique is to segregate your fortress by raw material, and have separate "wings" or "nodes" of the fortress for different types of material. All woodworking workshops, for example, are connected to a vertical shaft dug down from a stockpile near the front gate that takes in lumber from outside, where craftsdwarves only need to travel 3 tiles horizontally to the stairs, 1-4 z-levels up the stairs, and a tile to the side to reach their lumber supply. Since most industry takes only one general type of raw material (wood, stone, metal/ore, gem, food, cloth,) you can easily segregate by raw material. Put "finished product" stockpiles on a separate floor, as well.
- Place your residential sectors (housing, food, and drink) as close to the workplace as possible. Dwarves waste most of their non-working time just walking to the drink supply. Make that as short as possible. Don't be afraid to make secondary alcohol stockpiles, and you can actually put residences for craftsdwarves right under the stack of workshops. Legendary dining halls are tougher to make in droves, but not so tough you can't do it with an established fort.
- Blocks can substitute for raw rock for construction purposes, but are much lighter. If you are digging in a depth of 100z and need many rocks for building structures at the surface, you should set up a rock storage and a mason´s workshop at 100z to permanently make blocks, and use the blocks for the construction. This is a full-time job for one mason, but the speed of the construction dwarves is increased a lot.
Aesthetics
Aesthetics are completely subjective, of course, but it's still something you may want to consider when designing your fort.
- Symmetry is often the easiest path to visual appeal, but it may be hard to balance with function. Asymmetry can look great but requires more skill to look graceful.
- Conform to either mostly organic shapes or mostly inorganic shapes. A mixture probably won't look very good.
- Try digging passages out of stone rather than soil. Although digging in stone is slower and messier, stone can eventually be smoothed and engraved, and yields a usable material. Soil, on the other hand, is ugly and much less dwarfy (although being excessive and paving stone over everything is arguably more dwarfy).
- Use stockpile settings to consistently build your furniture and blocks from a single type of material. Bedrooms tend to look nicer when the furniture is uniform.
- Alternatively, if you like lots of color and variety, you can use the stockpile and workshop settings to make sure your dwarves use lots of different materials.
- Ramps are generally more aesthetically pleasing than the extremely narrow switchback stairs, but carry a much larger cost in efficiency and ease of construction.
Further Reading
For an in-depth examination of topics relating to fortress layout, these pages focus on specific aspects, mostly with an eye to improving survivability. Some of these are not directly related to architecture but are useful nonetheless.